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i just got a multi purpose filler and basically did as in the video except apply the patch ( didn’t get the patch ). is the patch super important? i might have to go and get the patch in that case. also need to colour match but how? i can’t chip another piece of the door and take it to bunnings (which is what i did the first time, chipped a small piece from the already broken area and took it)!
Small square of clean plastic flywire can serve as a patch if you have some handy as spakfilla etc bonds pretty well with it. I do recommend chipping out the putty and using a patch kit as per wscholermann’s advice. I also think that repainting the whole door surface is a good idea once sanded smooth.
You’ll need to mask the narrow door edges with painter’s tape or masking tape so that the new paint doesn’t drip onto the edges and betray you. Aldi sometimes has cheap roller kits that are ideal for small jobs like this. It’s worth checking out your nearest one to see if there’s any left from the last time they were on special. Also check out any $2 shops near you - they sometimes have el cheapo throwaway rollers and sandpaper etc.
A Bunnings paint sample tin or two should be enough paint to cover the door - each tin does about 1 sq metre with two rolled coats, so 1 tin should do one coat for the whole door I reckon.
I also think that repainting the whole door surface is a good idea once sanded smooth.
This might be a problem since I’m renting this room in an apartment and I vacate next week. Would it look odd if I just painted that tiny portion? A couple people have suggested repainting the entire door - any particular reason why?
It’ll be almost impossible to match the colour - paint ages and changes colour over time. However, colour changes only matter when you get the two colours side by side like in photo. A small difference between the front & back of the door won’t be noticeable cos noone will see them side by side. But a splodge in the middle of the door will be very obvious. Basic ‘landlord’s white’ is probably the way to go. Rollering on the paint is quick and very easy if the door edges (and handle & hinges) are masked as per my comment. I would also put a flattened cardboard box or a shit tonne of newspaper down under the door before painting to catch any drips or smears. Acrylic paint is water soluble if you catch it before it dries, so clean up is fairly easy and once done the tape & cardboard and roller etc. can go in the rubbish. Smell will take about 2 days to dissipate. You can speed this up a bit by opening windows if possible, and if not possible by putting a chopped up lemon in a bowl in the room to help mask the smell of the paint.
The really important bit is to get the patch perfectly smooth by sanding it flush. Wrapping a piece of sandpaper round a blocky object (even a couple of dishwashing sponges) will let you sand it flat and smooth. Someone with more sandpaper fu than I have can maybe recommend the size/number of the grit to use.
It’s unlikely (not worth trying) you’ll be able to match the paint well enough that it won’t be obvious. You’ll be able to get close enough matching the paint that the repainted side of the door won’t look out of place.
The patch will make it a hell a of a lot easier. Otherwise you have to fill the hole, wait for it to dry, fill it some more and so on until you get it to a point where the hole is filled and stable, and you just sand it back.
As for the colour of the spakfill, that’s neither here nor there. But certainly the colour of the paint matters. If you know the exact colour code you might get away with sanding back the spakfill till it’s smooth and level, then paint over that particular section. Once the paint dries it will look alright.
On the other hand if you don’t have a paint that matches closely you’d really have to paint the whole door.
Ok cheers mate, will head to Bunnings tomorrow and look for the patch thingy. Will also try and reach the REA and figure out the color code of the door since its probably standard in this building.
i just got a multi purpose filler and basically did as in the video except apply the patch ( didn’t get the patch ). is the patch super important? i might have to go and get the patch in that case. also need to colour match but how? i can’t chip another piece of the door and take it to bunnings (which is what i did the first time, chipped a small piece from the already broken area and took it)!
Small square of clean plastic flywire can serve as a patch if you have some handy as spakfilla etc bonds pretty well with it. I do recommend chipping out the putty and using a patch kit as per wscholermann’s advice. I also think that repainting the whole door surface is a good idea once sanded smooth.
You’ll need to mask the narrow door edges with painter’s tape or masking tape so that the new paint doesn’t drip onto the edges and betray you. Aldi sometimes has cheap roller kits that are ideal for small jobs like this. It’s worth checking out your nearest one to see if there’s any left from the last time they were on special. Also check out any $2 shops near you - they sometimes have el cheapo throwaway rollers and sandpaper etc.
A Bunnings paint sample tin or two should be enough paint to cover the door - each tin does about 1 sq metre with two rolled coats, so 1 tin should do one coat for the whole door I reckon.
This might be a problem since I’m renting this room in an apartment and I vacate next week. Would it look odd if I just painted that tiny portion? A couple people have suggested repainting the entire door - any particular reason why?
It’ll be almost impossible to match the colour - paint ages and changes colour over time. However, colour changes only matter when you get the two colours side by side like in photo. A small difference between the front & back of the door won’t be noticeable cos noone will see them side by side. But a splodge in the middle of the door will be very obvious. Basic ‘landlord’s white’ is probably the way to go. Rollering on the paint is quick and very easy if the door edges (and handle & hinges) are masked as per my comment. I would also put a flattened cardboard box or a shit tonne of newspaper down under the door before painting to catch any drips or smears. Acrylic paint is water soluble if you catch it before it dries, so clean up is fairly easy and once done the tape & cardboard and roller etc. can go in the rubbish. Smell will take about 2 days to dissipate. You can speed this up a bit by opening windows if possible, and if not possible by putting a chopped up lemon in a bowl in the room to help mask the smell of the paint.
The really important bit is to get the patch perfectly smooth by sanding it flush. Wrapping a piece of sandpaper round a blocky object (even a couple of dishwashing sponges) will let you sand it flat and smooth. Someone with more sandpaper fu than I have can maybe recommend the size/number of the grit to use.
I see. Thanks for the explanation!
It’s unlikely (not worth trying) you’ll be able to match the paint well enough that it won’t be obvious. You’ll be able to get close enough matching the paint that the repainted side of the door won’t look out of place.
The patch will make it a hell a of a lot easier. Otherwise you have to fill the hole, wait for it to dry, fill it some more and so on until you get it to a point where the hole is filled and stable, and you just sand it back.
As for the colour of the spakfill, that’s neither here nor there. But certainly the colour of the paint matters. If you know the exact colour code you might get away with sanding back the spakfill till it’s smooth and level, then paint over that particular section. Once the paint dries it will look alright.
On the other hand if you don’t have a paint that matches closely you’d really have to paint the whole door.
Ok cheers mate, will head to Bunnings tomorrow and look for the patch thingy. Will also try and reach the REA and figure out the color code of the door since its probably standard in this building.